You've just spent two hours carefully layering colours for what should be a realistic rose petal, but it looks muddy and streaky instead of smooth and vibrant. Or you're trying to capture the fine details of an eye, but your pencil point keeps wearing down after just a few strokes, leaving you frustrated and questioning your abilities.
I've been there. We all have.
Here's what I wish someone had told me years ago: often, the frustration isn't your technique—it's choosing the wrong type of pencil for what you're trying to achieve.
Some pencils glide like butter across the paper, perfect for soft blending but hopeless for crisp details. Others hold a razor-sharp point for intricate work but require patience to build up rich colour. A few seem to develop that mysterious cloudy film no matter how careful you are with your layers.
The difference? It all comes down to what's inside—specifically, whether you're using wax-based or oil-based pencils.
In this guide, I'll share the behind-the-scenes secrets I've learned from pencil manufacturers like Caran d'Ache, help you match the right pencil type to your artistic goals, and show you how this one choice can transform your coloured pencil experience from frustrating struggle to confident creation.
Whether you're dreaming of smooth portrait backgrounds or trying to capture every whisker on a pet's face, understanding this fundamental difference will help you choose pencils that work with you, not against you.
But before we explore which pencil suits your style, let's take a peek inside the pencil itself.
Once you understand what goes into a coloured pencil, it's much easier to see why they behave the way they do. And more importantly, you can use this knowledge to choose the right pencil for exactly what you're trying to achieve.
So let's get practical...
So, what’s actually inside a coloured pencil?
At first glance, they all look much the same—wood, colour, maybe a fancy label. But crack one open (preferably not your favourite), and you’ll find a carefully balanced recipe of pigments, binders, and fillers—all of which shape how that pencil behaves in your hand.
Pigments are the stars of the show, giving each pencil its rich colour. Then come the binders—usually wax, oil, or a mix of both—which hold the pigment together and help it glide onto the page. And finally, there are fillers like clay or chalk, which adjust things like softness, strength, and durability.
Too soft, and your pencil might crumble in the sharpener. Too hard, and you’ll be there all day trying to build up colour. The trick is in the blend.
To show how this plays out in the real world, Caran d’Ache kindly shared how they make two of their most popular coloured pencils—Pablo and Luminance.
The process is what we call the non direct process. Leads are made of powders (pigments, of course, talcum and clay) and binders (always 2 kind of binders - gums). The leads are first extruded, dried for 8 hours and then soaked in molten waxes for 24 hours (like chips).
This is the non direct way to impregnate the leads with wax. In this case, the content of waxes is less than 10% of the total weight of the lead.
This results in a pencil with a medium hardness and—according to the company—a lower risk of wax bloom:
Luminance pencils, by contrast, are made using a more direct method:
LUMINANCE is a mainly oil based and direct pencil. Leads are made of powders, waxes, and hydrogenated oil (solid, not liquid), and natural organic binder (gum). The leads are first extruded, then dried during 8 hours and then stay in stock during 2 months before being used to make the pencils.
Direct, in this case, mean that the waxes (and oil) are directly incorporate in the recipe. Leads are not soaked. In this case, the content of waxes is less than 30% of the total weight of the lead.
This gives the pencils a smoother feel and even more resistance to wax bloom:
So even within the same manufacturer, you can get very different experiences depending on how the pencil is made—and that’s before we even start comparing across brands.
With all these variables, how do you actually choose what's right for your art? Let me break it down.
Now that you understand what goes into making these pencils, let's get practical. I know you're probably thinking: "This is all fascinating, but which type should I actually be using?"
Here's the framework I use with my students to match pencil type to artistic goals:
Perfect for subjects like: Soft skin tones in portraits, atmospheric landscapes, flowers with delicate petals, any scene where you want a gentle, harmonious feel.
Perfect for subjects like: Realistic animal portraits with detailed fur, botanical illustrations, architectural subjects, any drawing where precision and clarity are key.
You don't have to choose just one type.
Many of my most successful pieces combine both. I might start with oil-based pencils for the detailed focal points—say, the sharp eyes and whiskers of a pet portrait—then switch to wax-based pencils for the soft, blended background that makes the subject pop.
The key is understanding what each type does best, then using that knowledge strategically.
Think about the last drawing that frustrated you. Was it because:
Your frustrations often point directly to the solution.
Pigments:
Look for pencils with high-quality, lightfast pigments. These keep their colour over time—important if your work will be on display or for sale.
Binders (Wax or Oil):
Wax gives smooth coverage and soft blending. Oil allows for sharper detail and more layering. Some pencils use a mix of both.
Additives and Fillers:
Fillers like chalk or clay adjust texture and strength. Too much filler, though, can mute colour and make a pencil feel dry or scratchy.
Now that you understand the difference between wax and oil-based pencils, let's talk about the brands you'll actually encounter in UK art shops—and what to expect from each.
I'll be honest with you: there's a lot of marketing noise around pencil brands.
Some artists swear by expensive imports, others achieve stunning results with high-street options. What matters most is understanding what you're getting for your money and how it matches your current skill level and goals.
For a more comprehensive comparison of these brands plus detailed reviews of many others available in the UK, see our complete Coloured Pencil Brand Guide.
Derwent Coloursoft
Prismacolor Premier
Faber-Castell Polychromos
Caran d'Ache Luminance
Derwent Lightfast
Here's something most articles won't tell you: you can absolutely create impressive, realistic art with mid-range pencils. I've seen students produce museum-quality pet portraits with Derwent Coloursoft and basic Faber-Castell pencils.
The expensive pencils will make certain techniques easier and give you richer colours. But they won't fix fundamental issues like poor proportions, muddy colour mixing, or lack of value contrast.
If you're just beginning your realistic drawing journey, I'd suggest this approach:
This combination gives you experience with both types, costs less than one premium set, and both brands are readily available for replacements.
You'll know you're ready to upgrade when:
Remember: the goal isn't to own the most expensive pencils. It's to create art that fills you with genuine pride.
I get this question constantly, and I think you deserve a straight answer.
The truth? Upgrading from student-grade to artist-grade pencils will make a noticeable difference. Your colours will be more vibrant, your blending smoother, and you'll have fewer frustrations with breakage or scratchiness.
But here's what won't change: The fundamental skills that create realistic, impressive drawings.
Last month, I had a student show me her latest purchase—a beautiful set of Luminance pencils worth over £200. "I'm finally going to create the art I've been dreaming of," she said excitedly. Three weeks later, she was disappointed and questioning whether she had any artistic ability at all.
The expensive pencils hadn't magically fixed her proportional issues, her muddy colour mixing, or her struggle with value relationships. If anything, the rich pigments made her colour problems more obvious.
A skilled artist can create stunning work with budget pencils, while premium pencils won't rescue poor technique. I've seen incredible pet portraits done entirely with £2 Derwent pencils, and I've seen expensive Luminance sets produce flat, lifeless drawings.
The pencils amplify your skill level—they don't create it.
It's not about time spent drawing or money in your budget. You're ready when you can honestly say:
Notice these are specific, technical needs—not vague hopes that better tools will solve fundamental problems.
Your time spent learning proper technique will pay dividends far beyond any pencil purchase. Master pressure control, understand colour relationships, learn to see values accurately—these skills will serve you whether you're using £2 pencils or £6 ones.
Remember: The goal isn't to own the best pencils. It's to develop the skills that let you create art you're genuinely proud of, regardless of which tools you're holding.
You’ve finished a piece, stood back to admire it… and noticed a strange, cloudy film dulling your colours. It almost looks like the drawing’s been sneaking snacks from the butter dish. This is wax bloom, and it’s one of the quirks of using soft, wax-rich pencils.
So what causes it?
Caran d’Ache, who know a thing or two about pencils, put it like this:
Blooming appears when you put down heavy layers or the artwork is sensitive to humidity, but it can also be a problem of "bad" formulation. If you mix vinegar and oil, you know what happens ? They can separate.
Archaeologists have found roman coins... and when you analyse these coins, you find that the metals are now separate. The heart is pure silver and external part is pure bronze.
That image of Roman coins slowly separating over centuries might sound dramatic—but it’s a useful analogy. If incompatible waxes are mixed together, they can migrate over time, rising to the surface and creating that cloudy bloom.
As for oil-based pencils?
They’re not entirely immune, but the risk is much lower. Why? Because they typically use hydrogenated oils—a solid, wax-like form of oil that’s more stable:
There is a chemical process which produces a reaction between hydrogen and oil and you get what we call hydrogenated oil, which is solid and looks like a wax. It is this product we also use in LUMINANCE, and the reason why I say that it an oil based pencil.
In short:
Can you fix wax bloom?
Yes! A soft cloth or tissue can gently buff it away. You can also spray a fixative to help prevent it, especially if you’re using lots of layers.
At the end of the day, the "best" pencil isn't about wax vs. oil, or even brand vs. brand—it's about understanding what works for your artistic goals and developing the skills to use whichever type you choose effectively.
Your subject matter, your artistic style, your current skill level—these all influence how different pencils will serve you. Some artists swear by the buttery blending of wax-based pencils. Others won't touch anything but oil-based precision. Many of us (myself included) use both types strategically within the same drawing.
Here's what I recommend doing this week:
Try the comparison test: Pick up one wax-based and one oil-based pencil (borrow them if you need to). Draw the same simple subject twice—perhaps an apple or a single leaf. Pay attention to:
This five-minute exercise will teach you more than hours of reading about pencil specifications.
Understanding pencil types is just the foundation. The real magic happens when you learn to use them effectively for realistic drawing. Here's what I'd tackle next:
Whether your pencils are filled with wax, oil, or a mixture of both, remember this: the real transformation doesn't come from what's inside the pencil. It comes from the skills you develop, the confidence you build, and the joy you find in the process of creating.
What's your biggest coloured pencil challenge right now? Drop me a line—I read every email and often turn common questions into helpful tutorials that benefit the whole community.
Still unsure which specific brands to try? Download our free guide: "6 Questions to Ask Yourself When Choosing Coloured Pencils" to clarify your priorities before shopping.
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