What this covers
A starting point for pastel pencils: techniques, supply guides, project tutorials in difficulty order, plus an honest look at when this medium suits you and when to stick with dry coloured pencil or soft pastel.
Pastel pencils are what they sound like: pastel pigment encased in wood, in the form of a pencil. You get the soft, vibrant colour of traditional pastels and the precision and cleanness of a pencil. No fingertips covered in dust, no chalk crumbling everywhere, no dedicated workspace required.
Three kinds of artist tend to land on a page like this. Someone who tried soft pastels and found the mess unworkable. A coloured pencil user looking for a faster way to cover larger areas without losing colour quality. And someone returning to art who wants to draw realistically and finds pastel pencils less intimidating than tubes of paint.
Below you'll find supply guides, the core techniques, project tutorials in difficulty order, an honest look at when pastel pencil is right for you (and when to stick with something else), and the four mistakes most people make on a first attempt.
From large scenes…
…to intimate detail
Two of Peter Weatherill's pastel pencil pieces to give a sense of what the medium can do once you're comfortable with it:
Thornborough Bridge, near Buckingham
Pen y Fan, Brecon Beacons
Three things to know before you buy anything:
Six reference pages worth bookmarking. If you read only two, make them Brands (so you know what to buy) and Paper (so the pencils actually work when you get them home).
A walk through the main pastel pencil brands available in the UK, what each one suits, and what to buy first.
Why paper matters more here than anywhere else, and the surfaces that actually let pastel pencils layer and blend.
How to apply, layer and blend pastel pencil to get the soft pastel effect without the dust storm.
A standard sharpener will snap the soft core every time. Three methods that actually work.
Stumps, tortillons, fingers (sometimes). And a warning about what not to do on sanded papers.
Whether to fix your pastel pencil work, and the trade-off between protection and dulling the colour.
Four tutorials in rough difficulty order. The vase is the lightest first project; the cottage doorway pushes you onto black paper, which changes how every colour reads.
A simple vase, used to introduce pastel pencils. Layering, blending and shading from the first stroke onward. The lightest possible first project in this medium.
Start here if pastel pencils are new to you.
Open the tutorial
A canal scene commissioned by Caran d'Ache. Reflections, perspective and a broader range of techniques than the vase.
A step up from the vase. A proper afternoon's work.
Open the tutorial
The Abbey of Bellapais, built up by combining both mediums. Pastel pencil for the broader tones, coloured pencil for the sharper detail.
Useful when one medium alone isn't quite enough.
Open the tutorial
An English Lake District cottage doorway worked on black paper in pastel and coloured pencil. The black ground changes how every colour reads, which is a useful thing to experience early.
Try after you've done one piece on white.
Open the tutorialThree honest options. There's no wrong answer; the question is just what fits where you are.
Either way, you'll find your feet. If you're not sure, the vase tutorial is the lightest possible commitment.
A few habits to break early. These are the four I see most often on a first attempt.
I treated them like normal coloured pencils
The pigment is much softer and more powdery. A lighter touch to start, then build up. The pencil doesn't want to be ground into the paper.
The pencil slid around and wouldn't layer
Wrong paper. Pastel pencils need a surface with tooth: Pastelmat, Canson Mi-Teintes (on the correct side), or any paper made for pastel work. Ordinary drawing paper won't hold the pigment.
My pencils kept breaking when I sharpened them
Standard pencil sharpeners snap the soft core. Use a craft knife, a specialised pastel pencil sharpener, or sandpaper to shape the tip. The sharpening guide walks through each method.
Everything looks overworked and heavy
Too much pressure too soon fills the paper's tooth, and the next layer has nowhere to grip. Light layers first. Heavy pressure is for final accents only.
If you want a clear route through this page, start with the Brands guide and the Paper guide so you buy the right things. Then work the vase tutorial to feel what the medium actually does in your hand. Everything else builds from those two starting points.