In short
Solvents dissolve the wax or oil binder in coloured pencils so pigment can be moved and smoothed. Zest-It is the safest starting point, OMS is effective but needs ventilation, and blender pens give the most control. Always test first.
If you have explored blending coloured pencils, you might have heard about using solvents to achieve very smooth, almost painterly effects.
Solvents are liquids that dissolve the wax or oil binder in your coloured pencils, letting you move and manipulate the pigment on the paper in ways that dry blending cannot always achieve.
They can produce beautiful results and help blend large areas or heavy applications of pencil. They also ask for more understanding, care and safety awareness than most other coloured pencil techniques.
This guide covers what solvents are, which types artists actually use, and how to work with them effectively and safely. If you would rather blend without them, the dry blending methods guide covers every approach that needs no liquid at all.
Before we get to products and techniques, one key point. Apart from watercolour pencils, which are designed to be used with water, most traditional coloured pencils are not made with the intention of being dissolved by liquid after they have been applied to paper.
When you introduce a solvent you create a chemical interaction with the pencil's binder, the pigment, and your paper. That is not a bad thing in itself. It is how the blending effect happens. But it does mean:
This is why the two golden rules for any solvent work are: proceed with caution, and always test first.
Paper choice matters more here than most people expect. My guide to the best paper for coloured pencils has a section on which surfaces to use if you work with solvents, based on my own testing.
Before you start: Never put a solvent on artwork you care about until you have tested it on a scrap of the same paper, with the same pencils. This one habit prevents almost every solvent disaster.
I cannot emphasise this enough. Before applying any solvent to a piece you care about, you must test it thoroughly. It is a step that saves you from disappointment and from changes you cannot undo.
Why test?
How to test
Taking the time for this gives you predictability and control when you come to your actual artwork. Your art deserves that care.
Testing tells you what a solvent will really do. Here Zest-It, Spectrum Noir and De-solv-it are compared on oil-based Polychromos and wax-based Coloursoft, against an unblended swatch.
The point
Three types are worth your attention: citrus-based like Zest-It, artist-grade odourless mineral spirits, and solvent pens. The rest either damage paper or carry risks not worth taking.
Once you start researching, you will meet several types. Here are the ones readily available in the UK and Europe, and generally considered safer for studio use.
Uses natural terpenes, often from citrus peel. Biodegradable, non-toxic and non-flammable, which makes it a sensible choice for a home studio. It dissolves the wax or oil binder well and usually evaporates completely, leaving no residue.
It has a citrus scent most people find pleasant, though a few find strong scents trigger headaches, so ventilation is still sensible.
Best for: Anyone starting out with solvents, or working in a room they also live in.
It is widely available from UK art suppliers, alongside a sponge impregnated with the Zest-It solution. The range for coloured pencil artists includes the Pencil Blend solvent in a bottle and a pre-loaded Blending Sponge in a tin.
The Zest-It Pencil Blend bottle and the pre-loaded Blending Sponge tin.
Refined to remove the most harmful aromatic compounds, so much less smelly than the white spirit in a hardware store. Gamsol and Winsor & Newton's Sansodor are the usual examples. Effective on both oil and wax binders.
Even odourless versions give off vapour, so ventilation is still needed, and they are flammable. Applied heavily they can leave an oily residue or a dark halo on some papers.
Best for: Artists who already use OMS for oil painting and have the ventilation to match.
Apply it with a tool such as a blending stump rather than wetting the paper directly, and always check the label for specific warnings.
Artist-grade odourless mineral spirits, such as this Sennelier bottle. Effective, but it needs careful application and good ventilation.
Markers filled with solvent, offering controlled application. Tombow, Derwent, Finesse and the Prismacolor Colorless Blender are the common ones. Easy to use, good for detail, and much less fume exposure than a bottle.
The amount of solvent in a pen is small, so they work out expensive for large areas. Clean the tip on scrap paper often to avoid carrying colour from one place to another.
Best for: Small detailed areas, and anyone nervous about handling liquid solvent.
A Tombow ABT N00 blender pen. Convenient, controlled, and kinder on the fumes.
Baby oil
It might technically move pigment around, but it never dries. You will be left with a permanent oily stain on your paper.
Hairspray
Not an art material. It yellows, it goes sticky, and it was never designed for blending. If you are looking for a fixative, see the fixative spray guide instead.
Applying solvents is about control and moderation. You want to dampen the pencil layers just enough for the pigment to move, not to soak the paper.
Make sure the room is well ventilated and your work surface is protected.
Get sufficient layers of coloured pencil down first. Solvents need pigment to work with.
Have your applicator ready. Cotton buds suit small areas and are disposable. Blending stumps or tortillons give good control, but keep solvent stumps separate from your dry blending ones. Small stiff synthetic brushes hold up better than natural hair. Felt applicators work too.
Pour a very small amount of solvent into a stable, non-plastic container such as a glass jar or ceramic palette well. Never dip tools straight into the main bottle. It contaminates the bottle and picks up far too much liquid.
Dip just the very tip of your bud, stump or brush into the small container.
Blot the excess on clean paper towel. You want it damp, not dripping.
Use light pressure and gentle strokes, working in small sections.
Use circular motions, or strokes that follow the contours of your subject.
You should see the layers start to dissolve and blend. Stop when the section looks right. Do not scrub.
Application is more direct. Draw over the coloured pencil area with the pen, varying pressure slightly to control the flow.
Clean the tip often by scribbling on scrap paper until it runs clear.
Let the area dry completely before adding more pencil or more solvent. Drying time depends on the solvent and how much you used.
A small brush, lightly dampened with Zest-It. Notice how the strokes smooth out and the colour deepens in the lower swatch.
Studio tip
Work in small sections and stop sooner than you think you need to. Solvent keeps working for a second or two after you lift the applicator, and it is far easier to add another pass than to undo an over-blended patch.
Solvents change the nature of your pencil layers. Here is what you are likely to see.
We have talked about what solvents can do. Before you open a bottle, we need to talk about safety properly. Any solvent, even an artist-grade one, needs careful handling and respect. Your health matters more than any blending effect.
The one that catches people out: Rags and paper towels soaked with solvent can spontaneously combust if they are crumpled up or left in a closed bin. Always dry them flat, in a well ventilated place, before disposing of them.
Solvents evaporate and release fumes. Breathing those in any concentration can harm your health, in the short term or the long term.
Ideally, work outdoors on a calm day, away from direct sun which speeds evaporation. Indoors, only work in a room with excellent air circulation. Open windows and doors fully to create a cross-draught. An extractor fan venting outside is well worth having if you work this way often.
Never use solvents in a small closed room with no fresh air.
Before using any product, read the whole label: safety warnings, instructions, first aid advice. Different solvents carry different risks.
Even low-odour solvents release vapour. For anything beyond brief occasional use in excellent ventilation, consider a respirator rated for organic vapours. That goes double if you are sensitive to chemicals or working for long stretches.
Solvents dry and irritate skin, and some are absorbed through it. Try to keep it off your hands, and consider nitrile gloves. If you do get solvent on your skin, wash thoroughly with soap and water as soon as you can.
Safety glasses are a sensible precaution against splashes.
Most artist solvents, including citrus-based, OMS and alcohols, are flammable. Keep them well away from ignition sources: open flames such as pilot lights, candles and gas stoves, sparks including static, heaters and cigarettes. Do not smoke while using them.
Keep them in their original, tightly sealed containers. Store cool and dry, out of direct sunlight, away from heat, and out of reach of children and pets.
Rags and paper towels. This is the critical one. Solvent-soaked rags, especially with oil or solvent mixtures, can spontaneously combust if crumpled or stored in a confined space such as a bin. Always let them dry completely flat in a safe, very well ventilated area, preferably outdoors and away from buildings, before disposing of them per your local council's hazardous waste guidance. Never leave soaked rags crumpled in a pile or in a closed bin.
Liquid solvent and empty containers. Never pour excess solvent down the drain or into the environment. Dispose of unwanted solvent and empty containers according to your council's hazardous waste rules.
Pour only what you need for the session into a separate stable container, glass or ceramic for preference. Apply it with a tool rather than flooding the paper. That minimises both fumes and potential paper damage.
Avoid eating, drinking or smoking in your workspace while using solvents.
Check the product label for first aid instructions covering inhalation, eye contact, skin contact and ingestion. Seek medical advice promptly if you need it.
Take these steps seriously and you can explore what solvents offer while keeping the risks small.
Solvents are a genuinely useful tool, offering ways to blend colours, create smooth transitions and reach painterly effects, particularly with wax or oil-based pencils.
They also demand respect, caution and a commitment to safety. And they are entirely optional. Beautiful coloured pencil work is absolutely achievable with dry blending methods or burnishing alone.
If you do choose to experiment:
Whether solvents earn a place in your work depends on the effects you want, your comfort with the precautions, and your working environment. Understanding the types, the methods, the results and the safety steps lets you make that choice properly.
Happy, and safe, creating.
Do I need solvents to get smooth coloured pencil work?
No. Layering, dry blending and burnishing all produce smooth results without any liquid. Solvents are one route to a painterly finish, not a requirement.
Which solvent should I try first?
Zest-It Pencil Blend. It is non-toxic, non-flammable, biodegradable and leaves no residue, which makes it the most forgiving place to start in a home studio.
Will solvent work on any coloured pencil?
It works on wax and oil-based pencils, though brands react differently because their binders differ. Watercolour pencils are designed for water instead. Always test your own combination first.
Blending Coloured Pencils Without Solvents
Every dry method for smoothing colour, from layering to burnishing, with no liquid involved.
Best Paper for Coloured Pencils
Five papers tested and compared, including which surfaces stand up to solvent work.
Which type you own changes how solvent behaves. Here is how to tell them apart.
Fixative Spray for Coloured Pencils
How to restore tooth after solvent work, and why hairspray is not the answer.